The inspection is where a lot of first-time buyers feel the most anxiety — usually because the report looks scary at first glance (they all do). My approach is calm and specific: we'll separate real issues from cosmetic noise, price the ones that matter, and write a response that protects you without torching an otherwise good purchase.
What a general home inspection covers
A licensed Minnesota home inspector spends 2–4 hours walking the property and checks the systems you can't easily verify on a showing: roof and attic, foundation and structure, exterior grading and drainage, plumbing supply and drains, electrical panel and outlets, HVAC, water heater, insulation, and visible portions of walls, floors, and ceilings. You're welcome — encouraged — to be there for the walk-through. I'll be there too.
What it does not cover
A general inspection is visual and non-invasive. It doesn't open walls, dig up buried lines, or evaluate anything under snow. If the home has a well or septic, sits on a lake, has a suspected mold issue, or the general inspector flags something specialized, we order the right specialist next — well/septic tester, structural engineer, sewer scope, chimney sweep, mold inspector, or an electrician. That's normal and it's worth the small extra cost.
How to read the report
A typical Minnesota inspection report is 30–60 pages and reads alarming until you sort it. I put every finding in one of three buckets:
- Safety / structural / expensive. Active roof leaks, panel or wiring hazards, failing HVAC at end of life, foundation movement, water intrusion. These are what we negotiate around.
- Maintenance items. Caulk, missing GFCIs, minor grading, worn seals. Real to-do items for a homeowner — usually not deal points.
- Cosmetic. Paint, scuffs, aesthetics. Noted in the report, but not something we chase in negotiation.
How to respond without blowing up the deal
Minnesota purchase agreements typically give buyers a defined inspection period during which you can request repairs, ask for a seller credit, negotiate price, or terminate. Over-asking here is the most common mistake I see. My rule of thumb: focus on the bucket-one items and a small handful of high-value asks, request a credit rather than repairs when possible (you get better work done by contractors you choose), and keep the deal collaborative. Most sellers respond well when the ask is proportional and specific.
Common Minnesota-specific findings
Ice dam damage, aging cast-iron drain lines, radon (Minnesota is a Zone 1 state — a radon test is worth the $150), tree-root sewer intrusion, and end-of-life 80% furnaces show up regularly. None of these are automatic dealbreakers — but each has a specific remediation, a real number, and a strategy for who pays.
Bottom line
A good inspection isn't a reason to panic — it's information. You're either buying the home with full knowledge, negotiating a better deal with that knowledge, or walking away and keeping your earnest money. All three are wins.
